Curare EP Resurrection

Created a new category for those in despair :lol:

Well finally got the poor airframe out of the van and to take a closer look. The film covering is very heavy grade, twice the thickness of Oracover / Profilm. Which is probably holding one half to the other!

Not sure when I can get round to sorting it out. But if I have some idea on where to start then may speed things up. Like DIY, you have to have the right mind set before attacking it otherwise..........well you know what happens.

Not attempted anything on this scale before so where does one start?

I am thinking carefully cut film away from the damaged area all round giving access to the wood. Looks like I will have make up some formers to support servo tray each end and the snakes. Cut-n-Copy some ply fuselage sides as per the good side. Make up a new forward wing locating panel.

Jump in with suggestions please...

Can I suggest you rename the topic - Curare Resurrection.

It's a tough call deciding how to repair a model like this. You could remove the covering and replace sections and formers back to good wood where you can splice it together. This is best practice and is what Jon is doing in his repair thread. However, it is much easier to just line up the splintered pieces and fix them with thin CA. Sand smooth and recover as necessary. A good application of the sanding block and covering iron and no one will know which method you have used. I'd do the later and have this model flying again next weeken

Much better title, Phil. Now you've got no excuses!!

MikeSeale wrote: .....However, it is much easier to just line up the splintered pieces and fix them with thin CA. Sand smooth and recover as necessary

This is what I did to my Sukhoi when Steve flew into it . Make sure you do a good job of sanding back before recovering.

My impressivo requires the same approach... Much more of a puzzle though!

Being to cold and windy to fly today I had a decent look at the Fuselage. The fuselage stringers and skin has splintered between F3 & F4 mainly just after the wing seat. I find surprisingly to me anyway that the 2mm ply sides end just after F3 (which is the servo tray rear support and snake holder). That leaves the skin and runners only until F5! Surely that is a weak point. Looking at plans of similar aircraft the fuselage sides and continuous. in one form or another from F1 to the tail end.

Anyway, I will order some lite-ply to make up new formers F2 (which is also the forward wing dowel mount), and F3. Balsa runners to drop in where missing/broke. I will cut out some lite-ply to fit in between F3 & F4, that should beef it up and help in making the fuselage straight again. Well, that's the plan anyway!



Skin? I measured it at 2mm. Is this standard? The stringers are 5mm 0r 6/32ins. Fuselage ply side panels are measuring 2.5mm.

Footnote: Formers? Lite-ply or birch?

The formers and internal structure will be birch ply Phil, not light ply.

I wouldn't add too much additional ply, I am sure the original structure was strong enough, no (wooden) model is designed to not break on impact!

Thanks Jon. Although I read somewhere lite ply was for RC aero and birch was more favoured for RC marine builders?

Although this raises another question I feel stupid enough to ask. On SLEC site birch ply comes as laser ply. In my case where I'll be cutting with a sharp knife and sanding to shape this would be a better choice? (I don't have modelling size machine tools)

PhilF51 wrote: Thanks Jon. Although I read somewhere lite ply was for RC aero and birch was more favoured for RC marine builders?

Always be carfeul of what you read somewhere...nearly as bad as "a bloke told me..."

Laser ply is just a term used to confirm that the ply is joined using glues that do not contain certain chemicals, usually PVC's, that bugger up the laser cutters due to the noxious and corrosive fumes created when they burn.

Birch is a much stronger wood than the poplar used to make liteply.

You could always try Balsa Cabin for Birch Ply. The SLEC ply is quoted as being cross grain which might affect your decision.

If the ply is much thicker than 2mm then a fretsaw and a V block will give a quick and fairly accurate cut...

and you'll still be able to pick up the finished work after :silly:

OR - make your own lite ply using a 1/64 ply ( cut with scissors) and balsa laminate

Thanks Mike and Alan. Why would gross grain be an issue, possibly harder cut? Once decided on wood needed I can order some in.