Scratch Build, What's needed?

I'm currently getting the bits together for my next plane, but once that's done, hopefully before the shortest days, I'd like to start gearing up to do a scratch build, I was rather inspired my Pete, Mike and Phil's build threads. So...

I know this is a bit of a, 'how long is a piece of string question', but what are the essential tools, jigs and consumables needed to start building a plane from scratch?

Does balsa carve nicely with a knife, or is it really best to sand it?

I know some people use a jig to hold the formers on the centre line and in the right position, but it would be great to see some photos of this type of jig so that I have a better mental image of what it is I will need to construct.

What about glues, I know CA glues are used a lot, but I still can't help but see it as a glue you use to piece together broken bits. I've used hot hide glue, cascamite and titebond original in the past for other wood related projects, but what are good glues for aeromodelling?

What are the things that come in really handy? I remember Mike S telling me about a particular sandpaper, but I can't remember the name of it now!

I've got some chisels, saws, hand planes a shooting board, drills etc so I won't be coming to this without anything.

Any advice would be great, thanks.

The sandpaper you are talking about is Permagrit. Not cheap but the ones I have are still being used after 20+ years
www.permagrit.com/product.php?cPath=65&products_id=193
www.permagrit.com/product.php?products_id=245
IMHO, the fine permagrit is too fine...I wish they did coarse and medium instead of course/fine

I'm trying to think of the tools I use that are not your normal woodworking tools:

David razor plane (others razor planes might be better)
www.amazon.co.uk/647104-David-Combi-Razor-Plane/dp/B000UZD1KG

Xacto razor saw
www.amazon.co.uk/Xacto-X75300-Precision-Razor-Saw/dp/B00004Z2U4

Balsa stripper
www.amazon.co.uk/STRIPPER-MASTER-AIRSCRE...ELLING/dp/B0000WS5OQ

I also use Czech modelling pins which are much easier to work with than "T-pins" or "glass headed pins". Click the link and scroll down to modelling pins
www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/tools.htm
I'm sure I saw them a while back at £2.99 for 50. I'd be interested in a link if anyone else finds it...my pins are about 25-years old and getting brittle so I only have about 30 left.

The last essential tool is a Dremel (or similar) with cut-off discs and sanding drums.

I'm sure I use other items n a regular basis, but this will certainly give you a start.

PS. The image attached shows some useful items. The centre-line marker and centreing guide in particular.

Brilliant Mike, thanks. it looks like it is just a few bits I need then, and nothing to exorbitant, although the permagrit is a bit on the steep side, but if it lasts years then it's worth the investment.

Chris
I second the Permagrit abrasive tools, I have the sanding blocks, tool roll and also a set of rotary tools (to go with your dremel). They are expensive but they are well worth it. It is almost impossible to wear them out, other than for final finishing, you will never use a sheet of sandpaper again! They will rip through balsa, ply and grp with ease.

Hi Chris

Good to hear you are going to have a go.

One thing you will have to consider is your source of materials - Modern designs require a lot of cutting, not only of the basic outline but also lightening holes and slots. This all needs to be accurate. The last time I scratch built anything was many decades ago and I used sheet and strip balsa, a sharp knife and toilet paper for tracing. This method would not be suitable now so you might need to have the balsa and ply parts laser cut or sourced as a plan + wood pack.

Also where do you plan to build it - the building process is very messy and can produce copious amounts of dust and fumes. If your in a workshop or garage that should be ok because you will have to be able shut the door and leave glues to set/harden etc. Kitchen tables make life very difficult with other members of the family - Mothers :pinch: - Wives :evil:

For basic cutting I use an ordinary scalpel. I always keep many spare blades since I have never been able to resharpen a scalpel blade to its original form. As a tip, always cut in a direction away from any fingers that are holding the work-piece - the blade will slip at some time and a finger or two will not stop it. :blink:

I must admit that having seen the build threads of Pete, Mike and Phil, I have started to get the urge to cut balsa - I must sort out my Garage.

Have fun with the build.

I third Permagrit tools, they are indestructible!

I'd add a self healing cutting mat to the list. Definitely a must have and as big as possible. Also a nice flat building board, the one I use is 60" x 18" and should do you unless you are thinking of building a big glider. It must have a surface soft enough to take Mike's nice Czech pins. I also find a metal set square very useful.

Get building!

Wot a great thread topic, Chris!

I agree with what the others have said. I have only one Permagrit tool, but will be getting more. A useful gadget is a strip of balsa 1" wide, 1/4" thick and about 8" long. Stick (PVA) a strip of sandpaper to one side and hold it in your 7" woodworking vice for a few minutes. Then, stick a handle on the other side and you have a non-permanent grit tool of your own choice of grit size. Very 'andy for sanding frames etc. Just stick another strip on top of the worn one as necessary.

There is always confusion about what Scratch building means. To me, it means seeing three views of your prototype and scaling it up then designing and building an aeroplane to fit within the outlines. I have never done that, though Richard Nye has (C47 Dakota scaled from a Revel plastic kit).

The best, really the only, way to get into building is with a kit. Go for one that has laser cut parts. The old die cut jobs are a pain (see the Bleriot thread). Flair Models do a great range of kits, as do many other companies.

In answer to your question re carving, NO, balsa does not carve well, unlike bass (lime) wood, which is too heavy for most of our purposes. For a complex shape (eg a cowl) you would get close with some really sharp woodcarving gouges, then finish with sandpaper or a fine curved file. I mean Really sharp.

I have never used a jig, though often coveted one. A small engineer's square is also an essential, as are straight edges, 6", 12" and one yard in length. **

For building boards, contact John Jacobs (member) He makes them at DT's sizes out of framed Sundealer for £30.

Finally, if you are a good wood worker, you can build planes.

** Just realised you probably were not taught Imperial measures!

An afterthought. A roll of teddy bear wrapping paper is good, for covering plans whilst you build on them. Non stick, transparent. When finished, throw it away.
Just seen Phil-F's bit. For the Rascal I used the household clothes pegs. I got my own set for Christmas! EEEh, Luxury!
Add a set of small files (2 mm thick). A set of really small files (1mm thick) is also useful

And one essential thing which is a "Must Have". Little clamps and lots of 'em. I bought 40 on Ebay for £12.00. Act as extra hands...........

Poor Phil C. Has to use his wife's clothes pegs.... :lol:

Chris also asked about glues. I have built with CA in the past but the fumes are not nice at all so I avoid them as much as possible. Most of my building is now done with deluxe materials aliphatic resin
www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/rc-modellin...g-5060243900074.html
and the stronger parts that don't need sanding are done with gorilla pva
www.screwfix.com/p/gorilla-glue-wood-glu...god9acLVw&kpid=43424
Thin zap CA (pink bottle) is used for the tight fitting joints (parts slotted together first and CA wicks into the joint) and gorilla CA (a thick CA) for other areas. CA kicker is also worth having when working with thicker CA's. Spray kicker on one surface and while it evaporates put the CA on the other part. When you bring the parts together it bonds a lot quicker than without kicker.

Another thought. A fretsaw can be very handy. A hand fretsaw will do most jobs, but takes time. A motorised scroll saw is ideal, but can be expensive.

A happy medium is a treadle operated fretsaw, very popular in the 50s, last century. As it happens, I have a fine example of such a device, yours for a tenner.