Taranis X9D plus

Brian Jackson wrote: First question. Is it possible?
Second question, if it is, how do I program the Taranis?
I tried to make sense of the "mixing" section in the manual, but so far I've been unable to figure it out.
Any helpful suggestions would be welcome, apart from those telling me to get a Futaba transmitter.

1. Yes it's possible.
2. You're mostly going to be on your own there. This is because YOU need to understand how the programming works in order to be able to make changes when necessary.
3. Take a look at Mike Shellim's OpenTX clinic - rc-soar.com/opentx/

There is a lot of useful information about mixing for you to get your head round.

My initial thought is that you need to create 2 curves, one for the forward and one for the reverse motor. For the forward motors, a 3 point curve would be -100% (motor off) from full up elevator to centre. The curve would then go to +100% (motor on) with full down elevator. For the reverse motor, the curve would be opposite...and you'd probably want to slightly offset the point where the centre stick is so that you have a dead band so that the motors definitely stop with the stick centred.

You can then use the aileron (or rudder) stick to vary the amount that each of the forward motors turns. Mike Shellim describes this as 'volume controls' in his section on in flight adjusters - rc-soar.com/opentx/setups/adjuster/adjuster.htm Again, curves would be required so that moving the stick left would reduce power to the left motor without affecting the right one...and vice versa

Have fun!

Brian Jackson wrote: The video shows it all, Unfortunately I couldn't take in the programming sequence as the Taranis doesn't seem to have the facility to customise "curves" for the stick inputs. But perhaps I missed something?

On the transmitter you need to scroll to the mix screen...then edit the source (elevator) that you want to change the curve...then scroll down and change 'diff' to 'curve'. Once curve is selected you can choose which curve to use, so you will need to create a curve before editing or you'll have no curve select.

Thanks Phil and Mike for the advice. The single stick config. seemed like a "good idea" at first, but I suppose it could be a bit dangerous, far too easy to bump the right stick and get some unwanted action. I sat in a comfy armchair with the Taranis manual at 9.30 yesterday evening, I woke up at 1.30 this morning, I hadn't even turned one page and was none the wiser. Today, I'll try to stay awake long enough to achieve something!

I had considered using a open tx to control a scale excavator a while ago. It's that sometimes useful Instructables website! . So your plan could be simpler. Andy N says you need to use the left stick as well and I think he may right. I will see what i can achieve, it might not be that quick as DIY seems have resurfaced.

I found that I should have updated the X9D before attempting to do anything with it. Update installed and began to program the three motor setup. The main motors will be controlled from the throttle/rudder stick, the reverse motor from the elevator stick. All sticks inhibited by switch"F". Thank you for the helpful suggestions. Attached video explains all.

The "Rescue Boat" project was abandoned, and the Taranis went back on the shelf. Until a couple of days ago. My trusty Spektrum DX8 started to act a bit odd at Cashmoor last Tuesday, it needs to be "looked at", unfortunately Radio Workshop at Southampton doesn't repair Spektrum stuff, and as there's no Horizon Hobby in the UK, it seems to be a case of junk the transmitter or go the expensive route and send it to Horizon Hobby in Germany. It looked like a good time to get the Taranis off the shelf and back in business. For the past couple of days I've been trying to program it, with no success whatever. Today I think I found the problem. The right hand buttons felt a bit odd, and hadn't been doing what they are supposed to do. I opened up the Taranis' case and had a good struggle with the connectors and stuff, finally managing to get the main board out of the way. The oddly behaving buttons literally fell out of the case. The moulding which comprises the three buttons and the support structure had come undone, the fixing is only by a melted dot of plastic, this had broken and left the button assembly floating. I re-fixed the button assembly with a couple of dots of superglue. Then I thought it would be a good time to replace the clock battery as details like time and date couldn't be stored. Found a replacement locally, did the "click and collect" biz, finally got the "ready to collect" message on my 'phone. Unfortunately, when I arrived at the collection point, I was told that due to Covid etc, the store was closing until tomorrow morning. Funny how a simple thing like programming a transmitter can escalate.