Request for long threaded pushrod

MikeSeale wrote: Sound like you have a similar setup to the all moving tail in my Phase 5. My solution was to use one of these:

hobbyking.com/en_us/alloy-clevis-for-non...2mm-control-rod.html

I know that you do not like them from an engineering standpoint due to the threaded pin. However, my counter-argument would be that our models would have to fly for so many hundreds of hours before that became an issue and by then we would have either crashed or got bored with the model.

Another option would be these:

hobbyking.com/en_us/threaded-ends-m2xl20mm-10pcs-set.html

You could then use a ball link or a standard clevis assuming you had enough clearance at the tail end to include the coupler as well as the clevis/ball

Thanks Mike - The metal control arm currently has a ball link fixed and changing it would require surgery. So a threaded push rod is my best option. Your second option in conjunction with some grooves in a plain pushrod to prevent any slippage would work (if they weren't nil stock) however , I could make one and there is plenty of room to fit it but back to my original post - a long Dubro pushrod would solve it in 60 secs and annoyingly i recently used my last one to draw a mains cable behind some plasterboard - home goal !

kevinross wrote: home goal !

We all do that from time to time. Sometimes we get lucky though. A few days ago I did a little tidying up and threw away a strip of 120 ohm SMD resistors because I'd had them for about 10 years doing nothing. Fortunately they were still in the bottom of the bin when I got your email about spark suppression.

kevinross wrote: The metal control arm currently has a ball link fixed and changing it would require surgery

Presumably the ball link is removable from the ball? Could you drill the ball link to fit a non-threaded rod and then epoxy of CA the ball link to the metal rod - or is this anathema to you?

Time for a picture. Its just so easy to leave the ball link connected. drag out the piano wire (which will distort it) Then push a replacement in from the servo end and screw it in.

MikeSeale wrote: Sound like you have a similar setup to the all moving tail in my Phase 5.



hobbyking.com/en_us/threaded-ends-m2xl20mm-10pcs-set.html

You could then use a ball link or a standard clevis assuming you had enough clearance at the tail end to include the coupler as well as the clevis/ball

Following on Mikes suggestion, Ive solved the problem by silver brazing a wheel collet to a threaded adapter then re-tapped the m3 grub screw threads and filed matching indents on std piano wire.