P51 Conversion to DLE20RA

I have just spent nearly a day connecting the wiring and switches and kill-switch. Now is the time to fire up my first foray into gas engines. By mid afternoon I was thinking maybe I should have stuck the 120 OS glow in it. Been flicking for eternity and beyond and still nothing. Definitely a spark. Checked. Dropped a few drops of gas down plug hole and it would kick.

Checking fuel line it does not seem to be pulling fuel. Disconnected the Quickfil valve and connected the carb line direct to tank. That did not do anything either. With the amount of flicking done I was worn out and losing the will to live. I was hoping to get his bird running before I am confined to home shortly.

Any ideas Guys?

After Dave B's DLE carb experience, I would have it apart to check if it is assembled correctly. The diaphram pin wasn't engaged with the fork in the arm to open and close the needle valve. As you are not pumping fuel, you may have the same problem or maybe a blockage.

Just a thought but maybe it's that the carb is dry. On my os 22 I had to spin it up with a starter for the first start, something to do with diaphragm or reed valve being dry. It was fine hand starting thereafter.

AlanF wrote: Just a thought but maybe it's that the carb is dry. On my os 22 I had to spin it up with a starter for the first start, something to do with diaphragm or reed valve being dry. It was fine hand starting thereafter.

Alan, I thought that too, so my answer to that was to blow down the breather pipe to pressure fuel into the carb. It didn't work.

It a pain having to remove the engine again but I will check carb as per Jon's suggestion.

I think I'll go for the easiest route first by spinning it up on the electric starter. if that does not work then its carb strip.

I'll keep you updated. Thanks.

Certainly worth a try Phil. I seem to remember that there was a mod to solder up the hole in the butterfly as well. Might be worth a google on that as well.

I soldered the small hole closed on the choke plate on my DLE20 and it made starting much easier, but it should start without this mod it will just take longer to prime. Try the electric starter and it should fire up pretty quickly, if it doesn't i'm afraid it's like Jon said, strip the carb

SOLVED

Removed engine and took off Walbro Carb. Lifted diaphragm cover and checked for this fork effort. On this carb the fork does not appear to slot into groove in diaphragm, although there is a groove for it. The centre diaphragm button just sits on a lever. :huh: Wetted some fuel into the carb orifices. Quickly fitted back on engine. Then checked that fuel is running out of carb line. Yep! Reinstalled engine and connected up.

Now to Alan's suggestion - Fuelled up, ign off and spun the motor over with electric starter. Ign on, and applied starter. Instantly fired up. :whistle: Running reasonably well although does not rev up too well but needs tweaking and breaking in. Starts on hand flick too! because I am a newbie to gas I hope one of you kind Guys will tweak it for me whilst I watch and learn...

HI Phil,
As I am stuck at home and a bit slow bring it round and you do the tweeking and I will tell you what to do, we can check revs and exhust and cylinder head temps if you feel like it let me know

PhilF51 wrote: SOLVED

Removed engine and took off Walbro Carb. Lifted diaphragm cover and checked for this fork effort. On this carb the fork does not appear to slot into groove in diaphragm, although there is a groove for it. The centre diaphragm button just sits on a lever. :huh: Wetted some fuel into the carb orifices. Quickly fitted back on engine. Then checked that fuel is running out of carb line. Yep! Reinstalled engine and connected up.

Now to Alan's suggestion - Fuelled up, ign off and spun the motor over with electric starter. Ign on, and applied starter. Instantly fired up. :whistle: Running reasonably well although does not rev up too well but needs tweaking and breaking in. Starts on hand flick too! because I am a newbie to gas I hope one of you kind Guys will tweak it for me whilst I watch and learn...

Good news Phil, exactly as Dave B's was except with this the fork and pin didn't even line up!! DLE clearly need some improved QC for their carbs

The linked document below explains the diaphragm & metering needle operation and the effects of incorrect adjustment.

www.walbro.com/media/21886/hdaseries.pdf

However, my guess is that if this and other problem carbs are not assembled IAW the above - they may not be genuine Walbro carbs but Chinese - chinese copies.

Updated - just done a bit more research - Its possible that the smaller engines (like my Mintor) use the Walbro WT series carb. These carbs do not have a fork end on the lever to engage with the diaphragm spigot but do in fact rely on point contact against spring pressure

www.walbro.com/media/21907/WTseries.pdf