Hinge Line Options

Nice one Phil, are you going to glue both surfaces at once or one at a time, epoxy, resin W, or gorilla glue - we're on the edge of our seats we need to know the results
Good luck for next week!

chris.m wrote: Resin W waterproof pva works well to

Sometimes you do things the way you do because you've always done it that way. PVA certainly would be a lot easier to work with than epoxy...I'll give it a try on my next build/

Mike

AlanF wrote: Nice one Phil, are you going to glue both surfaces at once or one at a time, epoxy, resin W, or gorilla glue - we're on the edge of our seats we need to know the results
Good luck for next week!

After a few dry checks I will go for both surfaces using 30 min epoxy. Once the edges are virtually touching, then flex the control surface through 45/50 degrees each way (or the angle of the leading and trailing edges). That should align all the hinges so there is no tension between them. I used this method on the Mustang which had recessed hinges with excellent results. On the latter I used the wife's Dove stuff to lubricate/protect the hinge pin and then cleaned off with a Qtip. :lol: Smells nice too!

I have also done it control surface first, setting hinges to sit 90 degrees to surface, but are they 90 degrees? Using a set square and eyesight? But then they could be 88 or 92 due to the short distance to measure against.

MikeSeale wrote:

chris.m wrote: Resin W waterproof pva works well to

Sometimes you do things the way you do because you've always done it that way. PVA certainly would be a lot easier to work with than epoxy...I'll give it a try on my next build/
Mike

PVA? Now that's a thought, because it only sticks wood but has no hold on plastics, but the only thing I believe it has not got is some degree of flexibility which epoxy has.

This thread has certainly brought up some interesting views and methodology :lol: Is that last word legal?

[/quote]
PVA? Now that's a thought, because it only sticks wood but has no hold on plastics, but the only thing I believe it has not got is some degree of flexibility which epoxy has.
[/quote]

All the epoxy i have used goes off like rock, so i doubt there is much flexibility in epoxy. The hinges on my 50cc Yak54 were glued in using PVA and none have come loose over the last 18 months (Tempting fate i know), you just have to make sure you get plenty in the hole, and like Chris said its real easy to clean up any excess

REWIND - In fact I have glued the hinges in the control surface first. Why? Well on dry fitting the pin centres move around when flexing the surface against it's companion, gradually opening up the gap. Not good! Whereas if the hinge centre pin is flush with the edge and glued it cannot move. Will find out if this method is best policy in a few hours when the epoxy has set and go to fit the rudder to the fin...

Classic CAP 232 40cc - 60cc

As you can now guess I am able to sit a table to fiddle with models. Better half fetches and carries. :kiss:

Glueing Hinges! Definitely one surface at a time. Control surface first. To refrain from having to cut slots for the pin hinge heads I counter bored the hole slightly and ironed the film where necessary. Bevels now are virtually touching. Minimal gap, less chance of flutter.

Another question - Using HD control horns (Miracles from Probuild) , should I epoxy the horn screw in the surface as well or just thread lock the securing nut? Also is 1/2inch the standard distance between the hinge line and the horn screw?