Hinge Line Options

When you have finished preparing the holes, if they pass through the edges of the covering film, you could run around the periphery with a soldering iron (before full heat) to seal the film and prevent tears /separation. If you adopt Mikes method it will prevent surplus epoxy seeping under any overlap on the film

I glueone side at a time too - but I always install the moving surface (unglued) and work the hinge before the glue sets. This allows for fine alignment of the hinge centres, otherwise even a tiny misalignment ends up in a warping or sticky control surface.

Trust me to be different :silly: , I have always used 30 minute epoxy and done both sides at the same time, line the hinges up by eye to ensure they are square and the flex the surface to ensure you have full deflection. Have plenty of paper towels ready for cleaning up and a little bit of white spirit on a cloth cleans off any excess epoxy

Thanks to you all for your input. I'll use a combination of most of your suggestions and also follow Kevin's idea of a soldering iron tip to re-glue the film into the hole a little.

Resin W waterproof pva works well to, you welcome to come and try pulling them out of my 91" extra.......
pushing 80deg of ele throw and not pulled them out yet :evil:

Also dont need to worrie about "greasing" the pin, just roughen them up and glue them in!! when dry just "crack" the hing and it should free up!

I have had a go using this method on the fin as a test. The holes are 4mm and the pin heads are 5mm. I scored around the hole with a scalpel first. (Jon T) Then twisted by hand (or fingers) a 5.5mm drill bit in just a few millmetres. (Alan F) A quick insertion of a soldering iron round tip (in and out) (Kevin R) and then inserted the 4mm hinge. Perfect Pivot pin is just level with hinge line. Film covering looks good. So, only 18 other holes to do..... :whistle:

Thanks to all. I'll be following the Forum intensely for the next few months as I'll be unable to drive. Anyways, you won't miss that lunatic with a foamy MXS and a hangar full of virgin warbirds... :lol:

Nice one Phil, are you going to glue both surfaces at once or one at a time, epoxy, resin W, or gorilla glue - we're on the edge of our seats we need to know the results
Good luck for next week!

chris.m wrote: Resin W waterproof pva works well to

Sometimes you do things the way you do because you've always done it that way. PVA certainly would be a lot easier to work with than epoxy...I'll give it a try on my next build/

Mike

AlanF wrote: Nice one Phil, are you going to glue both surfaces at once or one at a time, epoxy, resin W, or gorilla glue - we're on the edge of our seats we need to know the results
Good luck for next week!

After a few dry checks I will go for both surfaces using 30 min epoxy. Once the edges are virtually touching, then flex the control surface through 45/50 degrees each way (or the angle of the leading and trailing edges). That should align all the hinges so there is no tension between them. I used this method on the Mustang which had recessed hinges with excellent results. On the latter I used the wife's Dove stuff to lubricate/protect the hinge pin and then cleaned off with a Qtip. :lol: Smells nice too!

I have also done it control surface first, setting hinges to sit 90 degrees to surface, but are they 90 degrees? Using a set square and eyesight? But then they could be 88 or 92 due to the short distance to measure against.

MikeSeale wrote:

chris.m wrote: Resin W waterproof pva works well to

Sometimes you do things the way you do because you've always done it that way. PVA certainly would be a lot easier to work with than epoxy...I'll give it a try on my next build/
Mike

PVA? Now that's a thought, because it only sticks wood but has no hold on plastics, but the only thing I believe it has not got is some degree of flexibility which epoxy has.

This thread has certainly brought up some interesting views and methodology :lol: Is that last word legal?

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PVA? Now that's a thought, because it only sticks wood but has no hold on plastics, but the only thing I believe it has not got is some degree of flexibility which epoxy has.
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All the epoxy i have used goes off like rock, so i doubt there is much flexibility in epoxy. The hinges on my 50cc Yak54 were glued in using PVA and none have come loose over the last 18 months (Tempting fate i know), you just have to make sure you get plenty in the hole, and like Chris said its real easy to clean up any excess