Request for long threaded pushrod

Phil Ford wrote:

4Pedalsfly wrote: Other option is to run a thread cutting die down suitably sized piano wire.

Done that, piano wire and bought a set of very small metric dies and threaded it myself. For B25 bomber internal elevator control as Horizon had left it out of the box

Good luck with that - piano wire is very hard and you will possibly lose teeth on your dies!

Thanks all but as Mike deduced i need to feed the replacement pushrod from the servo tray down a plastic tube to the internal tail controls so the min length is 30".
Most pushrods are ITRO 1.6mm. Any thinner will slop around, any thicker will stick. Even if a used softer wire to enable cutting a smaller thread - eg m 1.6 - where do i find a clevis / ball end with that size thread. Thats why the threads on 1.6m pushrods ( and cycle spokes) are rolled which expands the material to m2 or the Dubro units UNC 2-56.

Sound like you have a similar setup to the all moving tail in my Phase 5. My solution was to use one of these:

hobbyking.com/en_us/alloy-clevis-for-non...2mm-control-rod.html

I know that you do not like them from an engineering standpoint due to the threaded pin. However, my counter-argument would be that our models would have to fly for so many hundreds of hours before that became an issue and by then we would have either crashed or got bored with the model.

Another option would be these:

hobbyking.com/en_us/threaded-ends-m2xl20mm-10pcs-set.html

You could then use a ball link or a standard clevis assuming you had enough clearance at the tail end to include the coupler as well as the clevis/ball

JRI wrote: Good luck with that - piano wire is very hard and you will possibly lose teeth on your dies!

I think a lot of what we buy as 'piano wire' is not piano wire. I've got some that cuts easily and bends easily too - definitely not piano wire

MikeSeale wrote: Sound like you have a similar setup to the all moving tail in my Phase 5. My solution was to use one of these:

hobbyking.com/en_us/alloy-clevis-for-non...2mm-control-rod.html

I know that you do not like them from an engineering standpoint due to the threaded pin. However, my counter-argument would be that our models would have to fly for so many hundreds of hours before that became an issue and by then we would have either crashed or got bored with the model.

Another option would be these:

hobbyking.com/en_us/threaded-ends-m2xl20mm-10pcs-set.html

You could then use a ball link or a standard clevis assuming you had enough clearance at the tail end to include the coupler as well as the clevis/ball

Thanks Mike - The metal control arm currently has a ball link fixed and changing it would require surgery. So a threaded push rod is my best option. Your second option in conjunction with some grooves in a plain pushrod to prevent any slippage would work (if they weren't nil stock) however , I could make one and there is plenty of room to fit it but back to my original post - a long Dubro pushrod would solve it in 60 secs and annoyingly i recently used my last one to draw a mains cable behind some plasterboard - home goal !

kevinross wrote: home goal !

We all do that from time to time. Sometimes we get lucky though. A few days ago I did a little tidying up and threw away a strip of 120 ohm SMD resistors because I'd had them for about 10 years doing nothing. Fortunately they were still in the bottom of the bin when I got your email about spark suppression.