Great Power 38

Some of you may have noticed I have recently had starting issues with GP38 or just lately not starting at all. Sometimes firing but not running. Stripped down carb, found some gunk in filter so cleaned. Refitted the engine which is a bit of a fiddle. Still won't start. Put some fuel in plug hole and it will fire and stop. Spark is okay then. Ordered in a carb kit and replaced the parts anyway. Refit the engine and try again. problem has not gone away. I am losing patience now. Worn out from blipping prop too. :angry

I am starting to lose it! Still don't have a running engine even after cleaning it and fitting new parts. ordered a carb supposedly for GP38. Three days later it arrived and it is not the correct carb. it is for the GP76 Twin which is why the throttle arm's orientation was wrong for me. Sent back so total money wasted is £10 in postage. Ordered in another genuine Walbro kit and kitted the carb out again. Refitted the engine which is real pain in the ass due to the fiddly servo linkages. Tries to fire but still no joy. Checked plug and it's dry so it is fuel issue. I am at a loss now twice - engine not runing and no Extra to fly!

HELP Is there anyone within the club who is a master of small engines and carbs who can help me out? Preferably has a test bench set up for petrol motors which make it easier to fiddle with. GP38 has the same stand-off footprint as DLE35.

Phil, rcxel ignitions do often have problems with what I would guess are internal breakdowns on the HT side. These often only make themselves apparent at mid-to-high revolutions. I have a cheap ignition tester which mimics the hall-effect pickup and will take the ignition unit through from 0 to 12k rpm. I have heard some rcexcl ignitions squealing and watched the sparks go missing over certain rev ranges. I will test your ignition unit or you can borrow my tester.
Basically I have one of these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284408370841?hash=ite...9:g:DqkAAOSwlvlf9gEk which I think Morris Mini Motors also sells!

Good idea to check the ignition John but had a chat with Phil last night and the basic problem does appear to be a dry engine - it fires after a neat prime but wont draw its own fuel

Phil,
Have you tried running it straight off a supplementary fuel supply? Always possible it’s a blocked clunk or detached clunk tube. I had something like this when I converted a motor to petrol but forgot to substitute a tygon clunk tube, the old one had fallen off the copper outlet tube having sofened with the petrol and because I wasn't bothering to completely fill the tank just for a test run the fuel level was quite low - not reaching the outlet so the carb was just sucking air.
Just a thought.

Had the dry plug problem with my leaf blower engine. Turned out to be a perforated pump diaphragm on the Walbro.

I actually did get it running momentarily but before I could adjust the RPM down and adjust the low needle it stopped. It did not start again even after loads of flips. maybe it is the reed block? This is a bad show considering the engine has had maybe a total of 90 mins flying time. AerobatX do have a reed block kit at £41.00. Surely I should not need this just yet? Or am I just throwing more dough at it and still not solving the problem? At this rate of buying bits and getting nowhere I should swap it out for a DLE35

I'm no expert, but from experience cracked or warped reeds can cause poor starting. Definitely worth checking them.

PS fancy fixing my DA60, it runs but poorly. Needle adjustment does nothing!!!! :lol:

Chris Morris wrote: fancy fixing my DA60, it runs but poorly. Needle adjustment does nothing!!!! :lol:

Ah, that sounds like fuel regulator or metering what ever you wanna call it

Phillip Ford wrote:

Chris Morris wrote: fancy fixing my DA60, it runs but poorly. Needle adjustment does nothing!!!! :lol:

Ah, that sounds like fuel regulator or metering what ever you wanna call it

:lol: :lol:

Have planned to strip the carb and clean ect.
Good luck with GP38!!