Starting problems....

Glad you got it sorted Dave. Carb must have been a Friday afternoon job.

After running the engine some more last week at Cashmoor I've got quite a lot of black goo leakage from the Teflon joiners and one can rotated again!
So I've done the following:
Taken both cans/headers out and cleaned up.
Reorientated cans and servo screwed through joiners into header and can
Replaced spring clips with jubliee clips
Replaced stock dle plugs for ngk's.

With the headers off, I stuck my finger down the port and the pistons are already coking up.

I gather this is due to my running rich, having an oil mix of 30:1 and an oil that maybe doesn't burn up at the temps I'm running at.
I plan to take the mix to 40:1 and begin to lean out. Unless advised otherwise. Eager to look after this engine!

Oh and also acquired further finger protection!

Dave
I have never bothered using high mineral oil mixes for running in,I have always used 40/1 fully synthetic from the start.Take it easy for the first couple of tankfuls, then let her go.It takes a little longer for the motor to bed in. I have always used belray hr1 a bit expensive but worth it
On my first dle 50 it was 3 years old and had 250/300 flights and when it did finally let go I stripped it down and it.was clean as a whistle.
Too any newbie reading my post this is my own view and not set in stone

Dave,
This is as should be when running in all the rubbish wet and black, if you dry it out it will stick and build up and it shows the engine is running to hot and the oil is burnning, you are not running the engine too rich just excessive oil to keep it cool (the oil acts as a coolant as well as a lubricant ) Dont reduce the oil content yet, go to a top qualitity synthetic and reduce slightly as the hours increase, if you go below 30/1 you will risk the warranty on the engine. Mineral oil burns synthetic does not so will go out the exhaust and will keep things cooler also you should be having a few drips out the exh this early in the engines life, listen to grandad, if you want to blow money away give it to RAFA.

FrankRobinson wrote: Dave,
, listen to grandad, if you want to blow money away give it to RAFA.

:lol:

My $0.02 worth. Synthetic oil is a lot more slippery due to the molecular make-up, than mineral. So running in may take a little longer but the end result will be a long service life.



On first impressions I thought this item had a more primary purpose... :lol:

Me too..... I thought this is what Roger Scott means when he says 'd**d* chat'

Dave man up!!! Its only your prop giving you a little love bite

On a serious note if it is still back firing then something is wrong and needs to be looked at

I agree - if you have not seen my warnings under the post i made under subject - Tuesday 24th

-Just a word of warning - When my 3W started kicking back (which was due to a faulty timing sensor) i reverted to a chicken stick but the kickbacks wrecked my carbon prop.

So the message is - If the engine kicks back during start- there is a problem which need to be investigated. If you've transferred the carb from the old engine - consider transferring the ignition unit and sensor (one at a time )

Thanks all. Kevin I have just read your other post. I'm going to do some ground running tests tomorrow and will see what the state of play is

When I first got my dle 170 it bit me a couple of times,turned out to be a faulty ignition unit.I sent it back under warranty and a new one was fitted sorted.