Morris Dancer build

Experienced builders excuse these basics but hopefully these notes will assist some. 

When breaking out the laser cut parts (especially the 1/4") make the job easy and minimise damage by crosscutting the sub sections - Then slice the grain to the open end. 

I strongly recommend - BEFORE  breaking out the wing ribs in "Wing assembly:

Glue the vertical laser cut piece onto all thirteen ribs" 

One 
by one Extract the vertical reinforcement from the lighting section and glue to the rib ( i broke more than one rib.) Then extract the rib. 
Also note - the verticals are shorter on the servo mount ribs 

When preparing the battery tray, dry fit and pencil mark the reinforcement bars positions on both sides. 

I glued two small scraps under the fin slot - this assists aligning the fin. 

An easy way to splice the wing leading edge is to lightly clamp both sections at a shallow angle in a vice and cut across the jaws - this provides two matching angles 

My approach to building the wing  - I have a guide line scribed on my bench which I cover with packaging tape. 

Pin lower spar as per instruction

Temporary use upper spar to align the ribs T/E - weight ribs to hold flat to bench 

Wrap small rubber band around the L/E to align front of ribs 

Run medium cyan into joints aligning with a suitable set square or square block. 

With the ribs still weighted to bench , glue the T/E 

When dry and utilising the temporary bond to the bench, plane & sand T/E to match the wing section 

Then glue the 1/16" x 1/2" T/E capping 

After cutting the cross grain spar webs material, an easy way to cut to size is overlapping two sections, score with scaple, then snap along the grain. 

I used PVA 

Also used spare sheet to fit fwd and rear spar webs outboard to servo rib

Make life easy fitting the sheeting by simply running the balsa outer face over a boiling kettle (when the wifes busy) 
It helps to roll the sheets around some suitable plastic plumbing tube 

The instructions say to start the L/E sheeting 10mm aft the wing spar so I marked this with pins 

For the main adhesion i used aliphatic but i used 10mm Cyno aft the spar 

This method allowed me to accurately position the sheet and fix in a few seconds, then pull and roll the sheet around the ribs 

the last sheet retained its shape for over 6 hrs after steaming 

Due to the fragility of the wing ribs i decided to retain the lighting plugs until the top L/E sheets were glued 

nearly finished - good job as I'm on my last dregs of glue 

 A further reminder that the wing ribs are quite vulnerable before you fix  the 1/4" wide capping. (especially if your a bit clumsy like me )

Even with the 1/2" wide capping on the tip ribs i felt they would slightly vulnerable so i fitted som 3/32' full tips 

While i'm sure the servo ribs capping would have provided plenty of support for the aileron servos I just found it easier to use the left over 1/16" cross grain to fully box these ribs. - this would make feeding the servo wire awkward so i rolled some thin paper around a 1/2" rod and applied a few blobs of cyno to create the wire guides 

Finally - I know Chris has proven his design but i was concerned how well the 3/16" sq T/E section would retain the CA hinges long term so i supplemented this with some of the 1/4" scrap - this is best applied with only one T/E capping fitted so you can plane / sand to the t
T/E taper 

going back to the start - I used the triangles to set the angles of Fin and rudder but didn't glue. This made plunging the hinge slotting tool much easier