Morris Dancer build

The instructions say to start the L/E sheeting 10mm aft the wing spar so I marked this with pins 

For the main adhesion i used aliphatic but i used 10mm Cyno aft the spar 

This method allowed me to accurately position the sheet and fix in a few seconds, then pull and roll the sheet around the ribs 

the last sheet retained its shape for over 6 hrs after steaming 

Due to the fragility of the wing ribs i decided to retain the lighting plugs until the top L/E sheets were glued 

nearly finished - good job as I'm on my last dregs of glue 

 A further reminder that the wing ribs are quite vulnerable before you fix  the 1/4" wide capping. (especially if your a bit clumsy like me )

Even with the 1/2" wide capping on the tip ribs i felt they would slightly vulnerable so i fitted som 3/32' full tips 

While i'm sure the servo ribs capping would have provided plenty of support for the aileron servos I just found it easier to use the left over 1/16" cross grain to fully box these ribs. - this would make feeding the servo wire awkward so i rolled some thin paper around a 1/2" rod and applied a few blobs of cyno to create the wire guides 

Finally - I know Chris has proven his design but i was concerned how well the 3/16" sq T/E section would retain the CA hinges long term so i supplemented this with some of the 1/4" scrap - this is best applied with only one T/E capping fitted so you can plane / sand to the t
T/E taper 

going back to the start - I used the triangles to set the angles of Fin and rudder but didn't glue. This made plunging the hinge slotting tool much easier 

I thought it best to do a dry run for the controls. Not totally sure how Chris intended to run pull pull elevator controls but I inserted a small nylon tube thru the Fin / rudder fairing and couldn't avoid fouling the rudder. 

So added some more 1/4 balsa to the rudder internally to allow a small trim of the lower surface 

Like this...

There is a laser cut hole in the tail centre section.