Royal Kit for Bleriot Mk XI

I wasn't able to check the HK website earlier (school server block), but there are three different G46 motors and two different G32's. Looking at the recommended setups, you would need to make sure you ordered the 670kV G46 or the 600kV G32. The lower kV versions of these motors will probably need a very big prop which won't look right and might even cause ground clearance issues.

I think the G46 is far too much for this model also regardless of kv ratings. The G32 is your best bet using the battery pack weight to balance. I have a couple of new G32's here of 770kv bought to upgrade the Twin Otter. Max power was approx 600 watts (41 amps). If your model weighs in at your estimates that's nearly 90 watts per pound.

On a 4 cell you should be okay with 12 inch prop.

Phil - If you want to try one or buy one they are here. I have no need now as I have uprated the Twotter with different props and lipos.

Or, I could put a 40 FS in it.

But then it would get all clarted up and getting it out of the open structure would be a pain, so electric for me.

Thanks for the advice and offers, lads: I may well be taking you up. I have commenced the fus, but have little to show as yet apart from two flat side frames. After tomorrow, I may have something to play with, for balance and equipment layout. I could take a bay off the end of the looong fuselage. Apparently some of the 900 plus aircraft built to the Mk XI design were shorter than the one Wot flew the channel.

The maximum ground clearance is 8-1/2" and from snaps of other models and full size examples, something around 11-1/2" or 12" would look the right size, so the G46 670 kv matches (recommended 12x8 minimum). The G32 600 kv mentions 13x4 to 14x10.

This is much more fun that faffing with fuel...

Phil-C wrote: Or, I could put a 40 FS in it.

You gotta be joking....... :whistle:

Still think a G32 770kv is what you need. Swinging props in the range 11x7 - 12x8. On three cells gave approx 440 watts on the 12x8. An example: 2 x 440 watts got my Twin otter (10+lbs) in the air easily. My reckoning is a G32 on four cells will probably want 12 inch prop and give you around 600 watts. Obviously a Watt Meter will help here on getting the best out of it. A 46 is quite a lump, think of those motors in the WOT trainers which are very similar.

The fus starts here. Slight delay while the corner notches were adjusted with 1/64 and 1/32 ply shims glued in place to improve shape and squareness. Missed one and put it in after assembly. Also sanded the formers before insertion to make the outer edges flat. All seems to be square. Good old laccy bends and 4 clamps hold it til the glue sets.



This is the battery compartment.

Phil! If you didn't spend so much time talking about electricity motors you could have finished this baby

Phil-C wrote: This is much more fun that faffing with fuel...

Phil, I can see that your mind is made up and I wouldn't want to sway you but, think of it as not "faffing with fuel" but as a ritual to be carried out with solemnity and respect. Think of the patina that will grace your model which others of a different persuasion will attempt ( and fail) to replicate with a weak wash with an airbrush. Think of the quality time you will spend with the air frame which you have so lovingly crafted. But most of all, think of the sight and sound of a 4 stroke puffing it's way through an azure sky - Benedini? Pah!

Phil-C refers to

Good old laccy bends

Has his trusty manservant been spending too much time underwater?

Bands! That sned button again!

Alan, I will have a go at disfiguring the airframe with all those charismatic oil stains, but this time they won't be further disfigured by the paint being washed off in flight, and during filling, emptying, wiping down....

Here is the Shuttleworth example for me to attempt to emulate.



For sound effects, I have an idea. My trusty manservant will have a 40 FS on a workmate next to the flight box, and will operate the throttle to suit.

These words cover the next step. "Fully install fuselage formers F5 through F9, insuring alignment remains perfect". This took hours. The formers were not the correct shape, and the corner notches that match up with the four longerons didn't. I re-made three and "soled and heeled" the other two, but still not correct, so cut through the formers and inserted bits of ply, then when it was all looking OK, plated the formers fore and aft with strips of 1/64" ply. The result is a strong structure.



Eventually, the whole fuselage is pretty true. Next step, plate the sides of the front box with the supplied ply and balsa panels. Before that, see if a 4s battery will fit and decide where the servos will go: possibly under the battery, so all of the equipment weight will be near the firewall.