Rubin

kevinross wrote: Looks super Mike and no mistaking which way up as you exit a spin. Whats your plan to paint the cowl.

I need to wait until Halfords in open and then find a blue and an orange that are similar to the covering. I'll either extend the colours straight forward or might curve then to a point so the front of the cowl is completely white.

Phil Ford wrote: A good job done. A very easily orientated scheme Mike. Blue/Orange is the modern look. What's the plan for the coming week now?

I have an unopened box of balsa from Balsa Cabin that has enough wood for at least a couple of models. I'll probably do an own-design slope soarer of about 2m wingspan.

JonTappin wrote: Attached is the only pic I could find of my now dead Sukhoi, not crashed due to orientation issues

Hopefully I won't be posting a similar image!

MikeSeale wrote:

kevinross wrote: Looks super Mike and no mistaking which way up as you exit a spin. Whats your plan to paint the cowl.

I need to wait until Halfords in open and then find a blue and an orange that are similar to the covering. I'll either extend the colours straight forward or might curve then to a point so the front of the cowl is completely white.

My local motoring centre can mix aerosols to R.A.L. colour spec - I'm sure you'll be able one out your way that can offer that service. or you could try this

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273791601048

I like your choice of colour scheme Mike, its almost like looking at two different models. Do you seal the balsa before covering, and do you use a primer on the overlaps in the film?

Mike, if the dark blue is Oracover 52 then the nearest is Fiat Capri blue, the colour seen on the cowl of my Pepsi and the newly rebuilt Chipmunk Stargazer (Halfords or Motabitz Ferndown, the latter makes colour spec aerosols in the shop or online). The light blue I would suggest is nearest Suzuki Swift blue. Orange might be a struggle in car colours though. Boy racer colour....:lol:

Brian wrote: I like your choice of colour scheme Mike, its almost like looking at two different models. Do you seal the balsa before covering, and do you use a primer on the overlaps in the film?

No and no. IMHO, the last thing you would want to do is seal the balsa before applying any heatshrink film. You want any air to be able to expand into the grain of the balsa as it is heated. To be honest, covering a foam wing using film is not easy because the foam is airtight. So for a built up wing you might seal all the edges before shrinking the film, but with a foam wing (or any soling surface) I lightly tack corners and edges every 10cm or so and then work from the centre outwards. This avoids trapping too many air bubbles.

As for sealing the edges of overlaps, I know Jon does seal his overlaps after covering (perhaps he can link to the product he uses?). I don't and get away with it partly because I do not use fuel and also because I haven't seen the need to do so. The only area where I did use Cover Grip (Balsaloc) is in a few places where a film edge was against the fibreglass bandage. But I don't apply Cover Grip over the whole bandage because I don't want it to stick too much here. I've done it in the past and as soon as you get a wrinkle it is virtually impossible to remove.

Phil Ford wrote: Mike, if the dark blue is Oracover 52...

Why would you assume Oracover. You know I'm [strike]a tight git[/strike] careful with my money.

MikeSeale wrote:

Phil Ford wrote: Mike, if the dark blue is Oracover 52...

Why would you assume Oracover. You know I'm [strike]a tight git[/strike] careful with my money.

At the present time that is good policy.
:lol: I did not assume Mike but I thought you might have some old stock of Oracover hanging around that someone gave you.

MikeSeale wrote: .
As for sealing the edges of overlaps, I know Jon does seal his overlaps after covering (perhaps he can link to the product he uses?)

I use this, same one has done several models.

signgeer.com/brand/sealit-pen

Although I don't seal all the overlaps, only edges of the separate trim pieces, especially any points. For overlaps, I just make sure they face downwind