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25 May 2015 08:55 #4586 by flyingpete
Replied by flyingpete on topic Provost
Finished making ailerons and flaps,just waiting for frank to source the hinge material. you will see in the pic I have reinforced the trailing edges with a strip of spruce

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25 May 2015 10:30 #4588 by Dante
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A bit late in replying as I've missed keeping up, but a tip I picked up for sloppy hinging, I've used it with great success albeit with piano wire and balsa but should work just as well with brass and piano wire. Pump PVA into the outer tube and insert the piano wire or drill a few hole in the tube and introduce the pa via a syringe and allow to completely dry (48 hr) when dry just crack the bound by twisting the inner piano wire and you a smooth and completely firm hinge with zero slop. Worth a try next time. I've even used this method on old developed sloppy hinges with complete cure!!

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25 May 2015 14:09 #4589 by flyingpete
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Ok then on with the tailplane.Simple construction built over the plan.The trailing edge has tabs on the bottom edge to hold it in the correct position, while gluing ribs.They also have tabs which will be cut off once the top sheeting is added. Also the false leading edge is added and blocks for the robart hinges

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25 May 2015 14:19 - 25 May 2015 20:29 #4590 by flyingpete
Replied by flyingpete on topic Provost
The elevators are constructed differently. First the bottom 1/16 sheet is cut to size and pinned down.leading edge and riblets are glued to the sheeting, and hinge blocks. Add top sheeting, job done.
The first discrepancy showed up on the elevator being the leading edge are 20mm too short, not a problem as I will scarf a piece of 3/8 balsa in and add an extra riblet.
Last edit: 25 May 2015 20:29 by flyingpete. Reason: text

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25 May 2015 14:24 #4591 by AlanF
Replied by AlanF on topic Provost
I'll be interested to see your method of installing the hinge points, everyone seems to have their own take on how to achieve a tight, bind free hinge line.

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25 May 2015 14:47 #4592 by flyingpete
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I've been looking at the wing, and as the design uses balsa main spars I will sleep better if I add extra end grain vertical webbing to the back of the spar.I'm also toying with the idea of adding a 200 mm bandage on the center section. This will not be seen on the rigged model as it will be inside the fuselage sides.

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25 May 2015 16:10 #4593 by flyingpete
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Extra webbing being added, I'm happy now B)

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25 May 2015 20:26 #4595 by flyingpete
Replied by flyingpete on topic Provost

Dante wrote: A bit late in replying as I've missed keeping up, but a tip I picked up for sloppy hinging, I've used it with great success albeit with piano wire and balsa but should work just as well with brass and piano wire. Pump PVA into the outer tube and insert the piano wire or drill a few hole in the tube and introduce the pa via a syringe and allow to completely dry (48 hr) when dry just crack the bound by twisting the inner piano wire and you a smooth and completely firm hinge with zero slop. Worth a try next time. I've even used this method on old developed sloppy hinges with complete cure!!


You never stop learning in this hobby,great tip Dante B)

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26 May 2015 17:24 - 27 May 2015 08:21 #4606 by flyingpete
Replied by flyingpete on topic Provost
Sheeted the wing today, so on with the fuselage tomorrow.At this stage I'm only sheeting the top of wing,on with the fuselage
Last edit: 27 May 2015 08:21 by flyingpete.

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26 May 2015 18:53 #4608 by MikeSeale
Replied by MikeSeale on topic Provost
A similar trick to Dante's for curing a sloppy linkage that develops on an already built model...but this one is not for the feint-hearted.

1. Switch your radio on and check that the control surface is moving.
2. Add medium CA to the quicklink, z-bend or what have you. Some CA will wick into the gap but will not set
3. Add a quick squirt of kicker and count to 5.
4. Move the transmitter stick to crack the joint

Mike

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