Great Power 38

Phil,
Have you tried running it straight off a supplementary fuel supply? Always possible it’s a blocked clunk or detached clunk tube. I had something like this when I converted a motor to petrol but forgot to substitute a tygon clunk tube, the old one had fallen off the copper outlet tube having sofened with the petrol and because I wasn't bothering to completely fill the tank just for a test run the fuel level was quite low - not reaching the outlet so the carb was just sucking air.
Just a thought.

Had the dry plug problem with my leaf blower engine. Turned out to be a perforated pump diaphragm on the Walbro.

I actually did get it running momentarily but before I could adjust the RPM down and adjust the low needle it stopped. It did not start again even after loads of flips. maybe it is the reed block? This is a bad show considering the engine has had maybe a total of 90 mins flying time. AerobatX do have a reed block kit at £41.00. Surely I should not need this just yet? Or am I just throwing more dough at it and still not solving the problem? At this rate of buying bits and getting nowhere I should swap it out for a DLE35

I'm no expert, but from experience cracked or warped reeds can cause poor starting. Definitely worth checking them.

PS fancy fixing my DA60, it runs but poorly. Needle adjustment does nothing!!!! :lol:

Chris Morris wrote: fancy fixing my DA60, it runs but poorly. Needle adjustment does nothing!!!! :lol:

Ah, that sounds like fuel regulator or metering what ever you wanna call it

Phillip Ford wrote:

Chris Morris wrote: fancy fixing my DA60, it runs but poorly. Needle adjustment does nothing!!!! :lol:

Ah, that sounds like fuel regulator or metering what ever you wanna call it

:lol: :lol:

Have planned to strip the carb and clean ect.
Good luck with GP38!!