Back to Basics

MikeSeale wrote: When I started flying (1980) a company produced a trainer called the Gnatty ()maybe Natty). Based on the Folland Gnat, you could build it with dihedral and 3-ch, no dihedral and 4-ch or anhedral of better aerobatic performance. I remember seeing them fly at Sandown and they looked ok in the air.

I remember them well Mike, the anhedral one looked quite good.

I remember someone did a Wot4 clone with anhedral, it didn't look good!!

Here's one somebody made earlier.

Soon I'll have to make a decision, whether to fit ailerons to the Kadet, and what type of aileron? a couple of slices of balsa sheet hung on the trailing edge of the wing is the way that the SIG designer has gone. But that is a retro fit, designed to make it easy for the would be R/C novice flyer. The latest version, the Kadet Senior, has inset ailerons. A bit more work, but easy enough to build, just a few more balsa spars and some saw cuts through a few ribs. It started me wondering whether a full span strip aileron is more effective than a "barn door", or are they used because they're easier to build?

The wire bending for the undercart was a non-event. A mate donated some old U/C bits, I was able to modify a pair of U/C legs from an old V-Mar model, not elegant. but with a balsa fairing might look alright. Should the "spring loop" face forward or aft? To minimise the mess from making a foam cowling plug, I hacked the basic shape using an old carving knife. The plug isn't a success, I used far too much resin when I glued it together and the resin line between the blocks was very difficult to get evenly sanded to shape. It looks OK from about ten feet away, but would't stand close examination. The good bit with the sanding was I could do it outside the shed, not a breath of a breeze yesterday.

Spring loop should go backwards...landing loads will then tighten the loop and it will spring back. It you leave it as is you will loosen the loop.

What 'resin' did you join your blocks with? I use aliphatic and it sands very easily. It also cuts with a hot wire.

To salvage your plug you could grind the resin line so it's deeper than the foam and fill with polyfilla or similar. This will sand about the same as the foam.

Thanks Mike, I used epoxy laminating resin, but I was too generous with it and the joints are far too thick. Good idea grinding out the resin and filling the gap. I sliced up the foam on my bandsaw, but its a bit limited for height, perhaps I'll brush the dust off the wire cutter, no height problem there, and I could cut the block to rough shape using card templates. Now I look at the U/C legs I should've realised that tightening the loop was the way to go. Funny how you forget things like that. Thanks for the nudge. Looks as though my old teacher was right when he wrote on my report (every year) " Must try harder".