Christmas Curare EP

Luckily we still have A Christmas Curare thread in the, cough, cough, Oily section of the forum :evil:

As the electric motor mount is a separate piece, could you not just use it as a template and make an extended version of it?

Ordered some 16mm x 200mm round ally bar. £7.00 incl P&P. I'll make my own spacers with some spare for the future.

I don't understand why you didn't order the NTM42 10mm spacers. A pack of 4 costs 67 pence from the UK warehouse and you'd need two packs to give you the 20mm stand-off that you need. Did you look at the photos and the link I posted earlier?

NTM42 10mm spacers

The reason that the lipolice motor is longer is due to the fact that it is not designed to take a prop-driver like the SK3 does. Instead, you have to use a collet-type prop adapter and you can clearly see from the photos on the Schweighoffer website that this makes the distance from the back of the motor to the prop driver a lot longer.

Looking at photos on the HK website, I'd say that the lipolice motor is the same as the easymatch G46-550.

Oops! Sorry Mike I must have missed that post. It will cost me 5.34 Parcel force for 67pence item now. Not unless I can think of something else I need that warrants the cost of the postage.

This stand-off issue really had me going. But this morning I am thinking - Hangar 9 Mustang came with 48mm stand-offs for electric. But I fitted a gas engine! Then there must be somewhere in this house 4 stand-offs. After an hour of searching found them in the roof still bagged up. Simple job to cut out four 20mm bits and drill out to 4.5mm for 4mm set screw clearance. Motor mounted, cowl position set and fixed. 2mm clearance between cowl and spinner backplate.


The qefimagazine electric review isn't that helpful as such, more of a skimp through. Jon's build/review much more helpful. although for glow. Since these models were reviewed, some changes at the factory have been done. The snake tubes are already fitted. There are four now, two for elevator rods and two offset for pull pull rudder. The single rod to rudder is discontinued. However to get a decent pull pull arm in to match the rudder horn width I have had to put the rudder servo where the throttle servo would've fitted.
The pull pull wires will now go under the elevator arm as per the original build instructions.

Getting some decent progress now, not rushing but taking careful steps. Tomorrow I am planning on glueing the stabiliser (dry fitted and looks good). Glueing the wings too, then I can work on the flap system.

What a carry on!

Firstly you have to use a double arm for the pull pull maximum width 44mm. Using the link connectors on the outside holes equals 40 mm the same as near minimum of the rudder horns. Manual shows clevises screwed on to couplings with pull wire threaded through. All done, hello we have a problem.

The clevis and link nearest the elevator servo won't clear it! Pondered this issue for while and decided to forget the manual and do it my way to achieve the proper outcome.

Do away with clevises use the connectors and slide the wire links through the connectors. This now gives some adjustment if needed to the pull pull and also the wire just slides by the elevator servo body. See images.

Steering is now installed. This is operated by the rudder servo. Coupled by the inner connector. I may have to go back over this steering rod though because in the manual they suggest a Z bend just before the servo. This I imagine is too reduce steering shock to the rudder. See images

Following the manual instructions with respect to the nose leg length (112mm) Wrong again! Wheel collided with the rear of the gear bay. Had to cut out 18 mm to clear. I won't finalise the actual nose axle position until the plane is put together with the mains down, so it sits level.


Wings completed. Flaps were a bit of fiddle and again I use some parts from the kit and made up the linkage my way. Again this makes for minute adjustments if needed. See images.

The rudder servo installation still looks a bit 'clunky'. A simple solution is to raise the rudder servo until the wires slide neatly over the elevator servo.

You also have a little movement on the rudder horns where you can bring them in a little bit more and then bring the linkages closer to the centre on the servo output arm

PhilF51 wrote:

The clevis and link nearest the elevator servo won't clear it! Pondered this issue for while and decided to forget the manual and do it my way to achieve the proper outcome.

Do away with clevises use the connectors and slide the wire links through the connectors. This now gives some adjustment if needed to the pull pull and also the wire just slides by the elevator servo body. See images.

Or just pack one servo up so the arms clear each other