Christmas Curare EP

In the manual they say glue two supplied hard wood blocks to raise the elevator servo to allow for the swing of the rudder arm and fittings. The elevator servo is limited in height due to the fact that they have pre-installed the snake tubes.

If, as per earlier versions the user had to assemble the snake bracket then I could've raised the elevator servo higher (if I foresaw the issue in the first place )
Anyway it all works now. I'll grind off the excess rudder horn to make it a bit tidier.

Info: There was no guidance on the horn length settings. So I have set the control horn heights at 25mm and the servo arm holes used are at 25mm = 1 to 1 pull ratio. This is for all surfaces

Mike beat me to it!

One of the problems with the way you have done it is that the servo arm can twist with the closed loop load being offset from the centre of the servo arm.

Also personally I have never liked those clamp connectors, I always throw them away. They are for people who can't solder their linkages

PhilF51 wrote: In the manual they say glue two supplied hard wood blocks to raise the elevator servo to allow for the swing of the rudder arm and fittings.

Perhaps I'm not viewing this correctly, but surely the rudder servo needs to be raised to clear the elevator servo, not the other way around?

And a 1:1 ratio is best from a geometry point of view, although it does limit your rudder movement to that of the servo deflection.

In image ...437 you will notice that the snakes determine which servo goes where. Hence my comment about the earlier version.

I see where you are coming from Jon. In the manual's rather awful images you will see that the rudder servo is offset anyway and supposedly tucks under the elevator servo arm. When I fitted it dry, the servo arm would have tobe pretty small. Which is why I decided to install the rudder servo in the forward servo position ( for IC throttle) allowing for required arm length and to line up better with the steering control.

JonTappin wrote: Also personally I have never liked those clamp connectors, I always throw them away. They are for people who can't solder their linkages

Are you referring to the flap linkage. Yes I could've soldered it and may still do. Another way too, is wire wrap the linkages together then epoxy or resin the wire wrap. Going nowhere!

Jon is referring to the linkage used to connect the pushrod wire to the servo output arm...item #15 in the black and white Scweighoffer photo above.

I first encountered this type of connector in the Multiplex Twinstar, and it is regularly used in foamy models. Like Jon, I do not like them but do accept that this is possibly due to a smidgen of "that's not the proper way of doing it" with a dash of "that's not how we used to do it" and a large dollop of "that's too easy". The only proper model I have that uses these connectors is the Wot Trainer, and they are working well so far, so what do I know?

Mike
(but I still won't be using them on anything I build)

Mike is dead right, it's not that they don't work, its just that they are not the best way to make the connection, the rod does not run in line with the servo arm so there is a twisting force on the arm and they always seem to create it bit of slop in the linkage. Probably fine in a foamy but not for a classic F3a machine!

With regards to the link stoppers that is how the Austrians/Hanno approved, designed it. Not my idea either, preferred bends and snaplocks But I was following the manual... :whistle: Servo arm is heavy duty so I don't think it will twist. Anyway I'll be sport flying it.

Today, fitted the wing to get some idea of the CG balance point which is 95 - 110mm from LE. Thinking that I may have to extend the battery box with supplied bits, because remembering something about Mike's Angel's battery sitting quite a way back?

In fact in my case no! Tried a 5 cell Nanotec 3.85maH (weight 564) and up against the back of the 100 amp ESC - tail heavy still. Tried another pack, this time a 6 cell 4000maH (weight 645) again up against the ESC (ie; directly under canopy) and it just balances. I am considering if it will go, fitting the ESC inside the cowl as per my Wots Wot, although space is limited in the slender fuselage. If it does then that gives room to slide the battery to best position.

cowl opened up for cooling. Prop size? Um! The 5045 660kv swings a 14x7 in the Wots Wot (1300 watts) but for the Curare 12 x ? or 11 x ? Advice please, don't want to drill 6mm holes in props that don't need it.

The 660kv motor will spin a 11x8.5 for just over 60A on a 6s battery.

MikeSeale wrote: The 660kv motor will spin a 11x8.5 for just over 60A on a 6s battery.

Thanks Mike. You are using 6 cells too?