Christmas Curare EP

I wasn't blaming you. I was sort of getting a second opinion IT'S NOT MIKE'S FAULT JON.. :lol:

It t'were upside down for install of battery. I just happened to pass by and peer into the innards...

I knew why it would be upside down, but it would have been really bad humour if it had been for another reason, and I need to keep Mike on side for my foam wing cutting tuition.

I guess the advantage of going electric first is that if you want to convert it to glow later it should be quite simple. If you did it the other way around you'd have a nasty oily mess in the engine bay and a hole in your cowl to deal with.

Chris001 wrote: I guess the advantage of going electric first is that if you want to convert it to glow later it should be quite simple. If you did it the other way around you'd have a nasty oily mess in the engine bay and a hole in your cowl to deal with.

Spot on.

This may be a delaying tactic designed for me. The two metal elevator push rods apparently require ME to solder on the screw end for the clevises. No-one mentioned this, neither in RCMF's review or Jon's so this may be a mod, I don't know. Need a welder!

Retracts turned up from Austria beating Servo Shop in the UK for my servos which are still not here.

Ran the iron over the wings and fuselage. Not to bad at all, just a few bubbles. Nicely covered anyway

I am following Jon's advice here by installing hardware into the wings first before joining. Easier to handle. Ailerons hinged so far. Aileron servos are HS-5495HVs, 7.5kg - 7.4volts. A bit overkill.

Found slight damage to a flap edge in transit but can be sorted later. Flap rods - exit holes in wing not big enough to allow the rod to move freely downwards. Opened them up with a sharp knife was needed. Now have up to 60 degrees of down.

Tomorrow glue wings together and fit flaps. One wing has been slotted to mount flaps servo directly into wing, maybe a deviation from the earlier kits?

PhilF51 wrote: The two metal elevator push rods apparently require ME to solder on the screw end for the clevises. No-one mentioned this, neither in RCMF's review or Jon's so this may be a mod, I don't know. Need a welder!

You can solder these with a 25W iron, but 40W or more will make it a little easier. Make sure the rod is clean and tin it first. Roughing it up a little with a dremel seems to make the solder stick a little better. Then heat the solder adapter until you can melt solder inside, and when it's melted push the rod inside and hold it there for 20 seconds or so to make sure its solidified.