Curare 60 E

Yes Phil, ran solder into each of the threaded brass links then solder onto the piano wire and with a hot soldering iron held against the link the wire slid into the links and made fast. Very pleased with the result!
I must say the plastic tubes that guide the closed loop wires for the rudder and the piano wires for the 2 elevators make life so much easier.
So I will now hinge the elevators and the rudder once I have fitted the respective control horns. The drilled ply piece will be glued in once the servos for rudder and elevators are finished. This will then extend the lipo battery tray.
I will go back to the torque rods for the flaps at a later date armed with the extra knowledge I now have to rectify the misaligned rods.
On we go.

Good work. Thought you had been quiet today. When you do the elevator rods in the fuselage just check the rods still slide when they are aligned to the servo arm. If they tend to bind you may have to pack the servo up with some thin ply. I had to anyway so my rudder wires would clear the elevator servo arm (as in the full size image I sent you) Rudder? Pull pull wire or direct rod. I initially started with a direct rod but found it bound a bit in the tube on my first Curare. Hence wires.

Lipo bay? Your using a slightly heavier motor so you find your pack goes further back than mine. The centre of my 4000 mah Zippy pack sits over the leading edge of the wing to give you some idea.

Today I pushed on with hinging the elevators and rudder. Then test fitting the stabs which on this model have pronounced anhedral angles. Slightly nervous about glueing the stabs on as there there are only very short stab supports and a small carbon locator rod to hold the correct position for the stabs. I think I will get the model on its wheels which will allow me to support each stab at the correct height from the table. After that I guess I will have to hold the stabs against the fuz until the glue dries. Hmmmmmm!

At the front, the cowl is ready to secure in its place so time to get the masking tape and pencil to decide the position for the cowl fixings. Job for tomorrow.

Good work Simon. The Cowl - I pushed mine back until I had approx 2mm clearance from spinner back plate. The back edge should be a good 10mm past the fuselage sides where it sticks out a bit. I used 2.9 x 10 self tappers with large heads. Four holes where drilled, two each side, with 2mm twist bit and then pre-started the screws. Backed out, remove cowl and drop thin CA into holes to harden the wood. This is my solution but you may have alternative plans. Although on reflection I would have tried to get the screws to go into the side of the firewall but maybe I did not have enough cowl material to go back that far. But with EP version there will probably be no need to remove cowl.

Simon O wrote: I think I will get the model on its wheels which will allow me to support each stab at the correct height from the table. After that I guess I will have to hold the stabs against the fuz until the glue dries. Hmmmmmm!.

Simon I think the model may be wobbly on the wheels - I would support the model on three points - two identical height blocks under the wings under the fin. Then cut two scrap lengths of balsa to support each stab tip. From the back of the model you should be able to eyeball two matching points on the wing. Fit markers at equal points from the fuselage centre. This should enable you to see any discrepancy. You will have to work out if this is best normal or inverted.

Thanks Kevin and Phil.
Jon refers in his article to using the wing as a reference when positioning the stabs so I will do as you suggest Kevin. My main concern is keeping pressure on the stab to press them hard up against the fuz to minimise any gapping whilst the 30 minute epoxy sets.

Simon, I used adhesive tape from the bottom of the fus to the tip of the tailplane then to the tip of the rudder, this will hold each tail half in the correct position and apply pressure to the joint at the same time. Use slow, setting epoxy then that will give you time to adjust as required.

Make sure you use plenty of glue, I don't think I did when I did mine as it came loose on one side later on!

Many thanks Jon, I will take your advice

JonTappin wrote: Make sure you use plenty of glue, I don't think I did when I did mine as it came loose on one side later on!

Yes Jon! I remember that comment.