Curare 60 E

I was going to ask about that. 500kv on 6 cells could be props from 13 to 15 easily. Try 12 x 10 as a starter but if you have the clearance you might look at a 13 inch to get the power the motor can deliver. Trial n error as usual.

Phil Ford wrote: I'm using 660kv on 11x10 prop. Does that mean my Curare is hot too?

I've not tried that prop on my 660. I am using a 12x8 for 80A.

Phil Ford wrote: I was going to ask about that. 500kv on 6 cells could be props from 13 to 15 easily. Try 12 x 10 as a starter but if you have the clearance you might look at a 13 inch to get the power the motor can deliver. Trial n error as usual.

A 13x10 on the 500kv motor gives very similar performance to the 660kv motor on a 12x8.

I will see how the 12x10 looks, if it's too tight to the ground I can always make a small change to the touching point of the nose wheel to the fuz and get another 3 or 4 mm in the nose wheel leg length, if you know what I mean

Hi Simon
Just been trawling thru this thread and notice you have more stagger between the flap torque rods than Phil and due to geometry differences moving through different arcs, this wil create different angles at full flap.
This may or may not introduce some roll when deployed but if it does a simple solution would be to programme a flap to aileron mix . so start studying your futaba manual !!

That's a bit of a concern. The torque rods were installed at the factory and the flaps were pre drilled ready for the torque rods so I'm not sure how to correct the issue other than programming in the Tx as you suggest.

Further to Kevin's comments, I use 3 flight conditions (not sure what Futaba calls this), one for each flap position and separate the trims for each, this means that you can individually trim at each flap position, you will normally get pitch trim changes with flaps and as Kevin said unless you have the flaps travelling exactly the same distance, you can get roll changes with flap as well. This makes it easy to correct it without using mixers which normally need lots of trial and error to get right. It also means if you want more throw or less expo say with full flap, you can do this all on the same switch

Simon
For future reference, what you should have done after trial fitting the flaps is grabbed the drive and driven ends of the torque rods with pliers and bent them to match.

However you might still be able to achieve this. Assuming the flaps are solid balsa, Try grabbing the flap with pliers and some strong ply plates to spread the load and bend / twist the torque rod to align. I would move the aft one forward. If this loosens the rod in the flap, make a small incision in the covering, dig down to the rod and wick some cyan in to make it hard !

FWIW I had to do that too. I squeezed the torque area tightly with some strips of ply between my fingers and the flap. Bent the best I could get. I was maybe lucky, my epoxied glue had not loosened.

Simon, are you able to overcome the control rod issue?